The Snæfellsnes ring route, part 2

The Snæfellsnes, part 2.

In our last blog post we started discussing the Snæfellsnes peninsula as an ideal destination for your 2-3 day mini camper trip. We suggested some interesting spots to visit along the southern side of Snæfellsnes and left off at Arnarstapi and Hellnar, which are close to the westernmost tip of the peninsula. In the following post we will continue around the Snæfellsjökull glacier and make our way along the northern side of Snæfellsnes and point out some interesting destinations along the way. As for maps, road conditions and other specifics please refer to the websites vegvisir.is, road.is and vegasja.vegagerdin.is. Moreover, we at Iceland mini campers can equip your rental motorhome with a GPS navigator for a small fee.

Rock, stones and fishing.

Dritvik.Vesturland.

Dritvik. Vesturland.

So, lets get down to business. The first interesting stop is Dritvík, from where open fishing boats would set sail by the hundreds back in the days. Dritvík has some really peculiar rock formations and four rocks that were used to decide what sort of cut the sailors would get from the day’s fishing. Since the boats were both propelled by oars and the fishing lines pulled by hand, the strength of each individual sailor was of the essence. The stones are Fullsterkur (Full-strong), Hálfsterkur (Half-strong), Hálfdrættingur (Half-dragger) and Amlóði (Lightweight). Try for yourself and see how you would have fared as a pre-industrial Icelandic fisherman.

Djúpalónssandur Vesturland

Djúpalónssandur Vesturland

Next stop is Öndverðarnes, which has an old picturesque lighthouse and some really impressive seaside cliffs and some angry surf beneath. Keep an eye out for seals, killer whales or even the white-tailed sea eagle, which is very rare but nests at a few locations in Snæfellsnes. Near Öndverðarnes you will also find Skarðsvík, which is a small white-sanded beach–a real sweet spot.

Öndverðarnes lighthouse and killer whale.

Öndverðarnes lighthouse and killer whale.

Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur

On the northern side of Snæfellsnes you will find three large towns, with population numbers ranging from 800 to 1000 inhabitants (very large towns indeed!), these are Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur and are all worth a visit and provide all sorts of services and entertainment. All of these towns have quite nice swimming pools and quite nice camping sites.

Stykkishólmur

Stykkishólmur

Whalewatching tours are also on offer in the towns of Ólafsvík and Grundarfjörður. These are take you around Breiðafjörður bay which has a spectacular seascape of countless islands and skerries and an abundance of all sorts of sea birds. Stykkishólmur also harbors a ferry called Baldur that takes both passengers and their cars across the Breiðafjörður bay and to the southern side of the Westfjords (see here http://seatours.is/). The ferry also stops in the small island of Flatey which is well worth a visit.

Kirkjufell

Kirkjufell

Sharks and horses.

The final absolute must-visit place on the northern side of Snæfellsnes is Bjarnarhöfn, where shark is processed. Bjarnarhöfn has a small museum of its history as a shark fishing and processing station and guided tours of the grounds are provided by larger-than-life character Hildibrandur who also provides samples of his shark. The taste is, well, unforgettable.

Beyond the places we have talked about there is an abundance of activities on offer on Snæfellsnes. First of all, there are a number of farms that offer horseback riding tours, just look out for this sign:

These come highly recommended on either the north or the south side of Snæfellsnes. Also, if you like fishing Snæfellsnes has a lot to offer. Many farms have some small lake or stream that usually contains some type of trout (brown trout, sea run trout or arctic char being the most common) so keep your eyes peeled for this sign here:

Road sign

Usually the fishing permits are quite cheap and some of the lakes are included in the Veiðikortið fishing permit, which is grants access to 35 lakes around Iceland (see here http://veidikortid.is/en/?lang=en). The trout is perfect for barbecued or seared on a pan and can be cooked to perfection with the cooking equipment in your Iceland Mini Camper.

To conclude, there are some gravel roads in the area so you are advised to drive slowly. Also, this far up north you are advised to bring lots of warm clothes regardless of the season. Most importantly, drive safely, make meny stops and have lots of fun!

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Sorcery, seafood and the world’s smallest Icelandic fishing village.

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Sorcery, seafood and the world’s smallest Icelandic fishing village

While the last post suggested lesser-known sweet spots along the popular Golden Circle route, the following segment will continue in the same vein and introduce some of our favorite locations. 

Iceland is often presented as divided into four regions–the north, the south, the east and the west–and these four regions each have their special landscapes and attractive locations. However, there is also a fifth quarter, a bonus round if you will, which is the Westfjords. Because of its distance from Reykjavík, the Westfjords region is largely overlooked by mainstream tourism. However, it is also secluded, sparsely populated and contains some of the most exciting views and locations Iceland has to offer. Covering everything the Westfjords have to offer could easily take up several hundred pages but for this occasion we at Iceland Mini Campers would like to suggest a trip to the most accessible place in the Westfjords and one that’s perfectly suited for a 2-4 day getaway in a motorhome. (For more general and practical information about the Westfjords see here).

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West Iceland

The best way to get to the Westfjords is to drive straight to Hólmavík. The journey should take a little under three hours of driving but we would of course encourage campervan travelers to take it slow and keep their eyes peeled for interesting stops along the way. Once in Hólmavík there are at least three activities that we must recommend:

First, check out the seafood that is on offer. The local stores often sell locally caught fresh fish, mussels, prawns and other delicacies. These are also usually on offer at the two local restaurator Café Riis and Kaffi Galdur.

Second, visit the local witchcraft and sorcery museum (see here), which has on display a replica of the bone chilling “necropants” which were worn only by the most ruthless sorcerers in the past. The Westfjords and the area around Hólmavík in particular has an interesting history of magic and sorcery. To this day people are advised not to make enemies in this region because of this fact so we suggest that visitors tread lightly and treat the locals with utmost courtesy.

Third, Hólmavík has, in our humble opinion, the thickest, warmest, and prettiest hand knitted woolen sweaters in Iceland. Be sure to visit the town’s little arts and crafts store for a closer look.

Once you have reached Hólmavík the rest of the Westfjords are at your fingertips but for now we would like to suggest share one of our favorite spots in Iceland, the small town of Drangsnes, which is only a 25 minutes drive from Hólmavík. (see here) Drangsnes is the smallest fishing village in Iceland with around 60 inhabitants and has a some really interesting attractions to offer. There is a restaurant there and boat tours that include fishing and sightseeing around the surrounding islands. The area is chock-full of all sorts of life; fish, whale and seabirds, which serves to explain why there has been a town thriving at that remote spot for hundreds of years. Another interesting benefit is the town’s three outside hot pots located at the shoreline. In 1996 the township of Drangsnes tried to drill for cold water but instead stumbled upon a geothermal spring. Because of this Drangsnes has all the hot water it could possibly use and more. Therefore the three hot pots were installed and at a short distance a small house with showers and changing facilities, all free of charge. At night you can soak in the hot pots and watch the locals waddle over in their bathrobes for a late night dip. The town also has a very nice swimming pool and an excellent camping site for the tired but happy campervan traveller.

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Westfjords road.

To conclude, it is worth stressing that if one is to venture further into the Westfjords there are a few practical things to keep in mind. Beyond Hólmavík there are many gravel roads where one must drive extra carefully (and perhaps consider getting extra insurance coverage). It is at least advised to drive considerably slower (no faster that 75 km/h) and try the brakes every now and then to get a feel for the grip of the tires.

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Puffin.

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Westfjords road.

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Sunset in the Westfjords.

Moreover, there are long stretches of road without shops, restaurants and gasoline- or service stations so it is advised to plan ahead. Finally, no matter the season it can get cold up there in the Northwest so the motorhome traveller should come prepared.

Have a safe trip!

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