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Reykjanes: The best and the worst of Iceland’s best/worst kept secret.

Reykjanes: The best and the worst of Iceland’s best/worst kept secret.

The Reykjanes peninsula is a place of many paradoxes. It has some of Iceland’s most beautiful landscapes, such as the sprawling moss-covered lava fields and the Eldvörp crater formation, it also has some complete eyesores, such as the depressing old US naval base and the huge Straumsvík aluminum smelting plants. The paradox also extends to the fact that while the majority of people who visit Iceland see some portions of the peninsula (most while driving between Keflavík Airport and Reykjavík or visiting the Blue Lagoon), many tour guides still mention Reykjanes as Iceland’s best kept secret. In any case, a drive around Reykjanes is an excellent way to get the most out of a short visit.  We at Iceland Mini Campers would like to make a few suggestions for interesting destinations and activities  ideal for a short mini camper  journey. Since a portion of the Reykjanes road system consists of gravel roads we recommend that you drive carefully (at a sensible speed and apply brakes every now and then to test road grip) and consider getting added gravel coverage. For a small fee we can also provide navigators for our motorhomes.

Route 42

Route 42

Geothermal fields.

You can start your tour of Reykjanes at our office and drop off point in Eskivellir, which is located in Hafnarfjörður at the base of the Reykjanes peninsula (we can of course also bring your mini camper to the Keflavík airport). Make your way onto route 42 which should bring you right past lake Kleifarvatn which, if you like fishing, is rumored to harbor some big ones (see here for permits: http://veidikortid.is/en/). A few minutes after you pass Kleifarvatn you should see Krýsuvík on the right hand side.

Kleifarvatn. The biggest lake in Reykjanes.

Kleifarvatn. The biggest lake in Reykjanes.

The Krýsuvík area has several geothermal fields with mud pots full of bubbling clay, hot springs and soil in every color of the rainbow. The area has wooden pathways so it can be enjoyed quite safely.

Geothermal area

Geothermal area

Moving along on route 42 you should make a right turn at the next crossing and continue on route 427 towards Grindavík. Driving along the seaside there are a couple of interesting stops, such as the Selatangar ruins (just watch out for local ghost Tumi), colorful mountain Festarfjall and the hiking routes around Hópsnes. Grindavík is a quaint little fishing town, mostly known for its salted cod production. For those curious to try this local delicacy there are some quite nice seafood restaurants in town, such as Bryggjan and Salthúsið.

From Grindavík you can either make your way towards the Blue Lagoon on route 426 or continue towards the tip of the peninsula on route 425, which is what we would propose. It is in fact getting harder to recommend the Blue Lagoon even though it continues to be wildly popular among visitors. Its popularity is indeed one of the reasons it should maybe be avoided since it can often get quite crowded and sometimes demands standing in long lines on the parking lot. As for alternative geothermal swimming pools there is one in almost every town on Reykjanes (see here: http://www.swimminginiceland.com/reykjanes) with admission at less than a quarter of Blue Lagoon prices.

European and American tectonic plates.

So, route 425 should bring you to the area around the Reykjanesviti lighthouse, which is surrounded by interesting sites, rich birdlife and various geothermal phenomena. First off there is the Gunnuhver hot spring, named after the ghost Gunna, and then there are the amazing cliff formations that can be seen from the shore, most prominently the picturesque Karl cliff, which rises some 51 meters from the sea. A short distance passed Reykjanesviti you will find Miðlína, the line that divides the European and American tectonic plates, and from there you can get to Hafnir, Sandgerði and Garður, some of Reykjanes’ small fishing villages and to finish the round trip of Reykjanes it is easiest to drive back to Reykjavík via route 41, which connects the Keflavík airport and Reykjavík.

There are several campsites on the Reykjanes peninsula which are ideal for mini campers and two that we would especially like to recommend: the one near the Garðsskagaviti lighthouse (situated on Garðsskagi, close to the village Garður) and, for added amenities such as laundry and internet, the newly renovated campsite in Grindavík (for more information see here: http://tjalda.is/en/camping-sites/sudurnes-peninsula/).

We have barely scraped the surface of all the interesting places to visit and things to do in in the area. So, if you are interested in hiking, golf, or cave exploration you should definitely find something to your taste on Reykjanes (see here for more information: http://www.visitreykjanes.is/). So, we would like to emphasize as always that you drive slowly with lots of stops and make your own discoveries.

Have fun!

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The Snæfellsnes ring route, part 2

The Snæfellsnes, part 2.

In our last blog post we started discussing the Snæfellsnes peninsula as an ideal destination for your 2-3 day mini camper trip. We suggested some interesting spots to visit along the southern side of Snæfellsnes and left off at Arnarstapi and Hellnar, which are close to the westernmost tip of the peninsula. In the following post we will continue around the Snæfellsjökull glacier and make our way along the northern side of Snæfellsnes and point out some interesting destinations along the way. As for maps, road conditions and other specifics please refer to the websites vegvisir.is, road.is and vegasja.vegagerdin.is. Moreover, we at Iceland mini campers can equip your rental motorhome with a GPS navigator for a small fee.

Rock, stones and fishing.

Dritvik.Vesturland.

Dritvik. Vesturland.

So, lets get down to business. The first interesting stop is Dritvík, from where open fishing boats would set sail by the hundreds back in the days. Dritvík has some really peculiar rock formations and four rocks that were used to decide what sort of cut the sailors would get from the day’s fishing. Since the boats were both propelled by oars and the fishing lines pulled by hand, the strength of each individual sailor was of the essence. The stones are Fullsterkur (Full-strong), Hálfsterkur (Half-strong), Hálfdrættingur (Half-dragger) and Amlóði (Lightweight). Try for yourself and see how you would have fared as a pre-industrial Icelandic fisherman.

Djúpalónssandur Vesturland

Djúpalónssandur Vesturland

Next stop is Öndverðarnes, which has an old picturesque lighthouse and some really impressive seaside cliffs and some angry surf beneath. Keep an eye out for seals, killer whales or even the white-tailed sea eagle, which is very rare but nests at a few locations in Snæfellsnes. Near Öndverðarnes you will also find Skarðsvík, which is a small white-sanded beach–a real sweet spot.

Öndverðarnes lighthouse and killer whale.

Öndverðarnes lighthouse and killer whale.

Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur

On the northern side of Snæfellsnes you will find three large towns, with population numbers ranging from 800 to 1000 inhabitants (very large towns indeed!), these are Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur and are all worth a visit and provide all sorts of services and entertainment. All of these towns have quite nice swimming pools and quite nice camping sites.

Stykkishólmur

Stykkishólmur

Whalewatching tours are also on offer in the towns of Ólafsvík and Grundarfjörður. These are take you around Breiðafjörður bay which has a spectacular seascape of countless islands and skerries and an abundance of all sorts of sea birds. Stykkishólmur also harbors a ferry called Baldur that takes both passengers and their cars across the Breiðafjörður bay and to the southern side of the Westfjords (see here http://seatours.is/). The ferry also stops in the small island of Flatey which is well worth a visit.

Kirkjufell

Kirkjufell

Sharks and horses.

The final absolute must-visit place on the northern side of Snæfellsnes is Bjarnarhöfn, where shark is processed. Bjarnarhöfn has a small museum of its history as a shark fishing and processing station and guided tours of the grounds are provided by larger-than-life character Hildibrandur who also provides samples of his shark. The taste is, well, unforgettable.

Beyond the places we have talked about there is an abundance of activities on offer on Snæfellsnes. First of all, there are a number of farms that offer horseback riding tours, just look out for this sign:

These come highly recommended on either the north or the south side of Snæfellsnes. Also, if you like fishing Snæfellsnes has a lot to offer. Many farms have some small lake or stream that usually contains some type of trout (brown trout, sea run trout or arctic char being the most common) so keep your eyes peeled for this sign here:

Road sign

Usually the fishing permits are quite cheap and some of the lakes are included in the Veiðikortið fishing permit, which is grants access to 35 lakes around Iceland (see here http://veidikortid.is/en/?lang=en). The trout is perfect for barbecued or seared on a pan and can be cooked to perfection with the cooking equipment in your Iceland Mini Camper.

To conclude, there are some gravel roads in the area so you are advised to drive slowly. Also, this far up north you are advised to bring lots of warm clothes regardless of the season. Most importantly, drive safely, make meny stops and have lots of fun!

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